Campobasso sits proudly on top of a hill surveying its lands below.
The castle in the old city commands a spectacular view over a the countryside which stretches out below ib
Thursday, 30 March 2017
Campobasso, here we are
Campobasso is the regional capital of Molise. It sits on a hill dominating the surrounding countryside.
In the old part of city there are cobbled streets, and numerous steps which wind there way up to Castle Monforte on the top of the hill.
Many buildings in common with every town and village are now sadly derelict, but this however does not detract one from appreciating their splendour. Many are being restored by very accomplished builders and craftsmen, but others sit as they have sat for more several hundred years, quietly perhaps reflecting
In the old part of city there are cobbled streets, and numerous steps which wind there way up to Castle Monforte on the top of the hill.
Many buildings in common with every town and village are now sadly derelict, but this however does not detract one from appreciating their splendour. Many are being restored by very accomplished builders and craftsmen, but others sit as they have sat for more several hundred years, quietly perhaps reflecting
Sunday, 26 March 2017
Molise Sunday
Molise is a region in Italy scattered liberally with hilltop towns and villages.
All the villages have a least one church in the centre, and often as well there as several other chapels and and shrines tucked away down the cobbbled streets.
Most of churches have been lovingly restored, although there are still a great number which need more work. I am not affiliated to any particular religion but when you walk into a church or chapel like these here in the Molise they certainly do seem to reflect the glory, and indeed joy of those who who go there.
The church in Cantalupo nel Sannio which I visited this morning is no exception. Exceptionally beautiful paintings adorn the walls and the ceilings. The quality of the artwork is quite astonishing, and in fact as I am particularly interested in art in this area I hope to meet some of the artists who restore them. There is no doubt they are certainly following in Michaelangelo's footsteps!
In the church at Cantalupo there are stars painted behind the altar which seem to fall from the sky. Many panels on the ceiling too are painted with stellar configurations, as well as countless cherubs and angels.
I have not post photos to this blog but will post them separately. This is intentional as I would like you to close your eyes to imagine you were sitting beside on the pew in church this morning.
Sitting admisdt a large congregation of all ages, from boisterous young boys to elegant elderly ladies in black, we are seated near the front,
All the villages have a least one church in the centre, and often as well there as several other chapels and and shrines tucked away down the cobbbled streets.
Most of churches have been lovingly restored, although there are still a great number which need more work. I am not affiliated to any particular religion but when you walk into a church or chapel like these here in the Molise they certainly do seem to reflect the glory, and indeed joy of those who who go there.
The church in Cantalupo nel Sannio which I visited this morning is no exception. Exceptionally beautiful paintings adorn the walls and the ceilings. The quality of the artwork is quite astonishing, and in fact as I am particularly interested in art in this area I hope to meet some of the artists who restore them. There is no doubt they are certainly following in Michaelangelo's footsteps!
In the church at Cantalupo there are stars painted behind the altar which seem to fall from the sky. Many panels on the ceiling too are painted with stellar configurations, as well as countless cherubs and angels.
I have not post photos to this blog but will post them separately. This is intentional as I would like you to close your eyes to imagine you were sitting beside on the pew in church this morning.
Sitting admisdt a large congregation of all ages, from boisterous young boys to elegant elderly ladies in black, we are seated near the front,
Saturday, 25 March 2017
Molise small, smaller and smaller
This week I have been exploring more of the villages around Molise, and it still saddens me to see their obvious decline.
However, at least with this project it will at least put them on the map and allow more people to discover just what Molise is hiding from the world.
Yesterday, I visited the tiny hamlet of Molise in Molise. Quite sweet really that such a tiny little place sitting proudly on the hillside a few miles from the regional city of Campobasso, holds the key to the region.
I have yet to discover anything much about it, apart from one line on Wikipedia which clearly indicates how it's population has declined quite dramatically over the last thirty years to less than 150 people.
I am interested to know why such a tiny little place took the name of the region, when I find out I will let you know.
There is a large virtually derelict Palazzo. or palace in the centre of the village which was obviously a place of importance. Now it still dominates the main street on top of the hill, but only a small part of it has been restored.
There is a lovely old stone postbox on the wall which has been cemented up.
I have seen these letterboxes in a few villages now. Of course, letter boxes in a wall or door are a very rare occurrence
in Italy now as most people actually have a post box on the wall beside their door, on even by the gate outside their property, or in my case at the bottom of the track on the main road.
The postman asked me to put a letter box up when I moved here, and I had to collect my mail from the Post Office until I go round to it.
There are one hundred and thirty-eight towns, villages and hamlets in Molise. In each one of them, the population is declining, as the younger people move away because there is very little work, their grandparents often stay behind in the villages, congregating as they have always done to natter at the local bar, or in the village piazza.Many families choose to move to apartments in the larger towns because they are often cheaper to run than drafty village houses. The houses are often kept, along with the land, then used when the olives are ready to harvest or the tomatoes ripe enough to make passata.
This week I visited Torella Del Sannio,
The castle can be seen sitting proudly above the town, wiith it's conical turreted towers commanding a magnificent view of the valley below.
You can still visit the castle today if you wish, you just have to contact them, and you can arrange to be shown round. It is really quite magnificent to visit a castle that is still lived in, rather than just wander amidst crumbling walls and lofty towers.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Castelloditorelladelsannio/
Elena Ciamarra was an artist and composer who lived in the castle, and her family still live there today. Her music is still apparently heard hauntingly occasionally drifting on the breeze as it carries across the village forth from within the walls on a summer's evening.
I have yet to discover more about this fascinating medieval castle and uncover it's secrets hidden for so many years like Elena's paintings which although they display some incredible talent have remained largely undiscovered, even today.
Torella del Sannio too has a number of empty, ramshackle houses which are greatly in need of renovation. There are some that have been lovingly restored and more will hopefully follow suit.
You can even buy a wing of the castle if you have a few hundred thousand Euros to spare.
Last week I explored some of the old houses in the village, discovering all kinds of interesting nooks and crannies.
Many still have pans sitting in the hearth and wicker chairs standing in the corner, yet it is only spiders who now spin their webs in the rotting rafters
So much more to say and to write about but that is all for today.
Yesterday, I visited the tiny hamlet of Molise in Molise. Quite sweet really that such a tiny little place sitting proudly on the hillside a few miles from the regional city of Campobasso, holds the key to the region.
I have yet to discover anything much about it, apart from one line on Wikipedia which clearly indicates how it's population has declined quite dramatically over the last thirty years to less than 150 people.
I am interested to know why such a tiny little place took the name of the region, when I find out I will let you know.
There is a large virtually derelict Palazzo. or palace in the centre of the village which was obviously a place of importance. Now it still dominates the main street on top of the hill, but only a small part of it has been restored.
There is a lovely old stone postbox on the wall which has been cemented up.
I have seen these letterboxes in a few villages now. Of course, letter boxes in a wall or door are a very rare occurrence
The postman asked me to put a letter box up when I moved here, and I had to collect my mail from the Post Office until I go round to it.There are one hundred and thirty-eight towns, villages and hamlets in Molise. In each one of them, the population is declining, as the younger people move away because there is very little work, their grandparents often stay behind in the villages, congregating as they have always done to natter at the local bar, or in the village piazza.Many families choose to move to apartments in the larger towns because they are often cheaper to run than drafty village houses. The houses are often kept, along with the land, then used when the olives are ready to harvest or the tomatoes ripe enough to make passata.
This week I visited Torella Del Sannio,
The castle can be seen sitting proudly above the town, wiith it's conical turreted towers commanding a magnificent view of the valley below.
You can still visit the castle today if you wish, you just have to contact them, and you can arrange to be shown round. It is really quite magnificent to visit a castle that is still lived in, rather than just wander amidst crumbling walls and lofty towers.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Castelloditorelladelsannio/
I have yet to discover more about this fascinating medieval castle and uncover it's secrets hidden for so many years like Elena's paintings which although they display some incredible talent have remained largely undiscovered, even today.
Torella del Sannio too has a number of empty, ramshackle houses which are greatly in need of renovation. There are some that have been lovingly restored and more will hopefully follow suit.
You can even buy a wing of the castle if you have a few hundred thousand Euros to spare.
Last week I explored some of the old houses in the village, discovering all kinds of interesting nooks and crannies.
Many still have pans sitting in the hearth and wicker chairs standing in the corner, yet it is only spiders who now spin their webs in the rotting rafters
Thursday, 23 March 2017
Take it easy
Yesterday I drove to Termoli, a town on the coast, with a large castle which sits proudly on a promontory overlooking the sea. 
Talking first about the drive to Termoli, about twenty miles from Lucito, where I live I have the choice of several roads. The most exciting is the road that wends it's way down the hill from Castelbottacio to the main road. It is a little rough in places, something you get used to here. Many of the roads are rather neglected, and in places is quite a challenge to navigate around the bumps and potholes, but this all adds to the fun of course!
I will write my next blog just about roads but don't want to put you off coming here.
The road down from the village provides yet another opportunity to see the most incredible views across the valley. It is just one of the many places here that literally makes my heart sing, and I cannot resist popping in a link to this song by the Trogs
As you navigate every bend in the road you are met by astounding views that will never cease to take your breath away. I like many have taken photos and videos of the hills, mountains and valleys which stretch out into the distance but none seem to really do them the justice they deserve.
As you can see from the view on the Sat Nav.. the roads really are great fun.
One of the other great things about the roads here too are that they are so quiet, there is rarely much traffic. Most of the time, in fact, there is virtually none at all. You can drive for miles and miles and miles without seeing anyone. Most of the commercial traffic keeps to the main roads so if you are prepared for a bit of an adventure you can navigate your way across the country on all kinds of roads and by ways ...
The public transport links between the cities too are excellent. There is a local bus which trundles along the road below my house three times a day. Apart from that, there are probably no more than ten cars go by each day.
There are also frequent buses to Rome, and Pescara from either Termoli or Campobasso, the nearest cities to me, which are very comfortable, clean and reasonably priced too.
Trains too are an option if you like that mode of transport and of course, the views along routes anywhere across both the Molise region and beyond are stunning.
I have been reduced to tears on many occasions here in Molise, which is why I have fallen in love with the area.
Views like this of a small chapel called Santa Guista, about a forty minute walk from where I live. I must have been there a hundred times now, and have never seen anyone else there. It is a little piece of heaven tucked away on a Molise mountain top which I would love to share with you.
As you navigate every bend in the road you are met by astounding views that will never cease to take your breath away. I like many have taken photos and videos of the hills, mountains and valleys which stretch out into the distance but none seem to really do them the justice they deserve.
As you can see from the view on the Sat Nav.. the roads really are great fun.
One of the other great things about the roads here too are that they are so quiet, there is rarely much traffic. Most of the time, in fact, there is virtually none at all. You can drive for miles and miles and miles without seeing anyone. Most of the commercial traffic keeps to the main roads so if you are prepared for a bit of an adventure you can navigate your way across the country on all kinds of roads and by ways ...
The public transport links between the cities too are excellent. There is a local bus which trundles along the road below my house three times a day. Apart from that, there are probably no more than ten cars go by each day.
There are also frequent buses to Rome, and Pescara from either Termoli or Campobasso, the nearest cities to me, which are very comfortable, clean and reasonably priced too.
Trains too are an option if you like that mode of transport and of course, the views along routes anywhere across both the Molise region and beyond are stunning.
I have been reduced to tears on many occasions here in Molise, which is why I have fallen in love with the area.
Views like this of a small chapel called Santa Guista, about a forty minute walk from where I live. I must have been there a hundred times now, and have never seen anyone else there. It is a little piece of heaven tucked away on a Molise mountain top which I would love to share with you.
Sunday, 19 March 2017
Crumbs and Beans
Crumbs and Beans
Today I was invited to celebrate St Joesph's day. In England, I have to admit pay little attention to Joseph, apart from acknowledging he played a part in the story of Jesus.
However, I discovered that here in Molise he is treated with a great deal of respect and reverence.
There is a special service at the church for him and a number of people build altars in his honour in their homes.
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Joseph was a carpenter according to the bible so homage is paid to his simple origins in the feast which on March 19th is prepared in his honour.
Although simplicity plays a part this particular feast to celebrate his humble origins there is certainly nothing lacking in the quality, presentation and quantity of the ingredients. Any festival celebrated in Molise requires one to consume a lot of food, and today was no exception.
In Lucito, my adopted village they celebrated with an enormous lunch of six courses
cakes
Everybody eating
fruit tart
fava beans
more cakes
and more cakes
lima beans
oranges
risotto
fennel
Baccala
and of course, wine in copious quantities with coffee to finish...
This afternoon we sat on the terrace of a house in the countryside laughing, chatting and eating in the afternoon sunshine, Mothers, daughters, sons, wives, fathers, grandfathers, grandmothers, aunts, uncles, friends and neighbours,...
There is no doubt about it the Italians know how to eat and how to party
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