Pictures tell a story

Civitacamporano is a hilltop village in the Molise region of Italy where the streets are not paved with gold but instead decorated by a whole range of beautiful and fascinating murals by an American Artist called Alice Pasquini whose grandparents originally came from the village.

This village is exceptionally beautiful and combined with a trip to visit other places in the area you will not be disappointed if you come to visit... I guarantee it ....

Like many of the hilltop villages in this region, Civitacamporano has fallen into disrepair due to lack of work for local people who are being forced to move away to seek work elsewhere. This is nothing new of course as the first immigrants began to leave the rural parts of Souther Italy after the WWII to find work in Canada and the US. 

Many of these people now are tracing their ancestors back to Italy and in some areas buying property which will help arrest it's decline.

The town although still in decline with the numbers of inhabitants falling is well worth going to see, especially if you are an ART LOVER.

However some years ago when Alice Pasquini http://www.alicepasquini.com/ first painted the murals here it brought new life to the village. 

When I visited the village for the first time a group of local boys showed me round. 

They led my friend Emanuele, a local artist and myself round to see every mural. Some are tucked away in doorways and others cover whole walls.

 

My favourite is a series of tree people who are cutting themselves free to clamber or drift away from their roots. Painted merely in black they are exceptional and draw one into wanting to understand the purpose of their mass exodus. 

Sadly villages like this are unique, their fortified walls have seen men fall in battle and they have resounded with the song of victory when their own troops rallied forth. Now due to lack of resources at a local level, they are suffering to keep the villages ticking over.

But don't let this put you off as a tourist. In every town and village in Molise people will welcome you will welcome you with open arms.

They are friendly, hospitable and try to be helpful.

There is some English spoken although now many will admit to it, so try your Italian out if you have any as it will be appreciated. 

Tourism is their best hope to survive so read my blogs about the area. If you want to come and visit the area get in contact with me and I will find you the best places to eat and stay

There are so many places to visit and so much good food. All the produce eaten in local restuarants is produced locally and all of exceptional quality.

The roar of a lion

Every village, town and hamlet I visit in Molise seems to hold another surprise in store for me, and everyone something different.
When I explored to the mountain village of Macchiagodena a village  I discovered a small terrace in front of the castle which looks out on the land below. In it stands two large containers of pencils, which are so realistic I wanted to lift one out to start to draw with it. There are piles of books to read, and seats with an astounding view of the Majella Mountains. It is an absolute joy for book lovers like me.

The village itself was originally a SAMNITE settlement nearly one thousand years ago. The SAMNITES a fierce warrior race who fought the Romans.

The castle, which was virtually impregnable sits proudly above the Biferno valley. Its large imposing towers nestled into the rock on which they perch.

Below the castle is an imposing Romanesque lion who surveys those who pass with cold stone eyes. Having seen the march of time one wonders what he would make of the world today if could raise his head to roar.

On my visit in March this year, I did not get a chance to visit the church but will return to see it, along with a visit to the interior of the castle I hope.

I am looking forward to talking with some local people to learn a little more about the village and indeed others across  Molise

Macchiagodena is certainly well loved, as indeed are the villages in Molise, although here it seems to hold its head very high rather like it's stone lion.

Molise loved but lost

Yesterday afternoon I  meandered through the streets of Torella del Sannio, below the towering castle walls with the Elena Cammarano.

She holds in her hands the responsibility to see that this magnificent monument, which has been in her family for generations does not once again become a pile of rubble. Built originally in the 1500s it has stood stalwartly towering over the sweeping landscape which surrounds it. Despite being severely damaged in WWII  when it was bombed it still remains largely habitable unlike so many other castles in the Molise region which have fallen into total disrepair.

The castle houses a huge collection of paintings created by her grandmother Elena Ciamarra. She has remained virtually undiscovered, despite the fact that she was a very talented and accomplished artist. Her paintings adorn the walls of the castle, along with a vast collection of books on art and literature.

Now, granddaughter Elena is battling to secure funding to enable her to maintain the heritage of her family, her village, and the region. This is a huge problem here in Molise, not solely for Torella del Sannio.

Travelling around extensively around Molise in the last few months I have fallen in love with the region, and am heartbroken to see it disintegrating into dust.

With the words of this song by Jimmy Ruffin resonating in my heart I have already seen that is so much that needs to be done, and now.

I am of course a foreigner, and will always be so.
Why do I care?
Let me tell you why, it is because Molise is not in a war-torn area in the Middle East, or in a desolate region of Africa. It is HERE now in EUROPE and as Europeans, and we have a collective responsibility to protect our heritage before it is too late. 

It is important too, to find the families of those who left Molise  to Canada, the USA or elsewhere and whose heritage is being reduced to tatters..

Torella del Sannio is trying it's best thanks to people like Elena but it is not enough.

I do not have any Italian ancestors, my mother's family hail from Yorkshire in the north of England, and my father's from Wales, but I am nothing if not a tough and resilient optimist.  I am prepared to spend countless hours trudging around the region taking photographs, talking to people, to show the world MOLISE DOES EXIST and MUST NOT BE ALLOWED TO CRUMBLE INTO DUST

YOU CAN HELP TOO

•  By becoming a member of the MADE IN MOLISE group.
• Visiting the region for a holiday, which will boast it's ailing economy
• Read this blog and spread the word
• Offering to make donations to projects being set up to restore the buildings and art in the area
• Taking part in Art, photographic, music and literary competitions
• You can buy a property and lovingly restore it.
• AND LAST NOT LEAST ... TELL THE WORLD so we CAN DO SOMETHING NOW 

Thank you ...
Grazie Mille .....................................