Arguably every event which takes place become a part of someone's history, but there are occasions when something happens which impacts greatly on our ever changing world.
This evening was one those events.
Due to the dogged determination of Dairy farmer Carmalina Colantuorno the ancient annual Transumanza was reenacted once again.
Just the sheer logistics of driving several hundred cattle across the country makes the mind boggle.
Seeking permission from landowners, sorting out the legislation required as well as finding places to eat and sleep enroute are were obviously only a few of the hurdles which had to jumped over.
But now the culmination of all the hard work can be clearly seen.
Having witnessed them setting off from San Marco in Lamis in Puglia on Wednesday I wept with emotion at seeing first hand such an extraordinary spectacle.
A ragged, yet strangely serene string of beasts trooping sedately across the beautiful plains below Foggia which then sweep onwards towards Molise was incredibly moving.
Fringed by mountains on almost every side, undaunted by the journey ahead both man, woman and beast set off in high spirits.
Today three days later they are still marching onwards.
Having missed them yesterday when they crossed over into Molise from Puglia just outside Santa Croce di Magliano
I caught up with them this evening on a hilltop just above the village of Ripalimosani, just outside the city of Campobasso in Molise.
I arrived in the village unsure of quite where I needed to be.
Unfortunately my Satellite Navigation struggles to find anywhere off the beaten track, and I have yet to find any maps which are detailed enough to help.
Of course most people locally know exactly where they need to go, and as most seem to visit places fairly local to them it is not too difficult.
I do not give up easily though, and one way or another I usually get to my destination, albeit not always by the most direct route.
The destination of the Transumanza today was the Quercigliole, an Agriturismo.. or farmhouse restaurant on the hill above the village.
Unsure where to go I parked in the village, and asked a couple of women sauntering up the hill.
They were taking their daily stroll or passeggiata as it is called here. Although they do not always walk to the chapel on the hilltop today they set it in their sights, proud to be witnessing The Transumanza.
Happy for me to join them I was able to walk up the hill with them.
Both born and bred in the village neither had traveled far, and laughed at my knowing more about Molise than them.
Proud though of their roots in the soil of Ripalimosani they were a great source of local colour.. So
thank you ladies.https://youtu.be/PE5sJy44s-Y
EE
The chapel called “ The Madonna in the snow” sits proudly above a small grove of Oak trees surrounded by fields and just above the Tratturo.
Sadly a little neglected, it's bright yellow paint crumbling it is still a fairly impressive sight.
Interestingly too this evening to boost the enthusiasm of the people who had turned out for the event a local historian, Guila Severino gave a short presentation on the chapel’s history, and how it links with others along the Tratturi thus playing an important part in the history of the Transumanza.
Nobody had to go hungry either as a group from Ripalimosano set up a small refreshment tent, something which always essential here, and although the crowds were not large in number they seemed to be doing a roaring trade selling pizza and beer.
As darkness began to fall the eagerly awaited band of beauty and beast could be seen wending its way down the road towards their resting place.
Met by cheers the weary band of drovers cocerced and cajoled the cattle to their resting place for the night under the Oaks.
They were then able to clamber off their horses, stretch their weary legs then sit down to enjoy a meal cooked in their mobile kitchen, before settling down on camp beds and mats to sleep for a few hours well earned rest.
Tomorrow bringing another early start as they have to be up at 4 to break camp ready to set off once again on the latter stages of their epic journey.
Well done one and all.
And finally ... THE FINAL COUNTDOWN
Having left the weary cowboys and girls to enjoy their supper before bedding down for the night in the wild I wended my way home to catch a few hours sleep before getting up to see them off on the last stage of their epic journey.
For me dragging myself out of bed just before 4 was a trail but only too much of a challenge as at least I had spent the night on a bed rather than the ground.
Ripalimosani was slumbering peacefully when I drove through to join them.
Stretching and yawning they dragged themselves from under blankets to saddle their horses and , grab a few biscuits, a swig of coffee.
I was able to join them for a short distance, but as I had to collect my car from Ripalimosani and had another appointment only trooped along with them for a short distance of a few kilometers.
Walking with them was no mean feat as the pace set by the cattle and riders was certainly not slow .
A number of local people joined them though, all keen hikers.
The spectacle of several hundred creamy white cattle being herded by the competent and able horsemen was a something I have only seen before in Cowboy films.
Although not the empty cactus strewn plains of the American far west it was something I will never forget.
The determination of man and beast to reach a destination?
Perhaps too the combination of all the forces at play culminating in such a momentous achievement.
I am saddened by the lack of interest here in events like this which although attract a degree of local curiosity do not bring people out in huge numbers.
The Tratturi and the history with which they are surrounded are bring championed by a small but rather haphazard band of local people who do believe in the importance of the Tratturo and the Transumanza, all determined to protect and promote their own history.
More can be done and for this reason I am seeking to encourage and develop a greater degree of interest in the history and principles of the Tratturi and the Transumanza not for my penny personal gratification but because I believe they are a resource worth fighting for.
Help me to bring this incredible and unique path of Italian history to the feet of anone who appreciates that the partnership of man and nature is one we should all embrace.
Molise is rich in culture and history but it story needs telling, not so that it is detroeted or exploited but the treasure shared by those who will and do appreciate it
No comments:
Post a Comment