Sunday, 27 May 2018

Beauty and Beast

This evening I witnessed a new chapter in Molise’s history.

Arguably every event which takes place become a part of someone's history, but there are occasions when something happens which impacts greatly on our ever  changing world.

This evening was one those events.

Due to the dogged determination of Dairy farmer Carmalina Colantuorno the ancient annual Transumanza was reenacted once again.

Just the sheer logistics of driving several hundred cattle across the country makes the mind boggle.

Seeking permission from landowners, sorting out the legislation required as well as finding places to eat and sleep enroute are were obviously only a few of the hurdles which had to jumped over.

But now the culmination of all the hard work can be clearly seen.

Having witnessed them setting off from San Marco in Lamis in Puglia on Wednesday I wept with emotion at seeing first hand such an extraordinary spectacle.

A ragged, yet strangely serene string of beasts trooping sedately across the beautiful plains below Foggia which then sweep onwards towards Molise was incredibly moving.

 Fringed by mountains on almost every side, undaunted by the journey ahead both man, woman and beast set off in high spirits.

Today three days later they are still marching onwards.

Having missed them yesterday when they crossed over into Molise from Puglia just outside Santa Croce di Magliano

I caught up with them this evening on a hilltop just above the village of Ripalimosani, just outside the city of Campobasso in Molise.

I arrived in the village unsure of quite where I needed to be.

Unfortunately my Satellite Navigation struggles to find anywhere off the beaten track, and I have yet to find any maps which are detailed enough to help.

Of course most people locally know exactly where they need to go, and as most seem to visit places fairly local to them it is not too difficult.

I do not give up easily though, and one way or another I usually get to my destination, albeit not always by the most direct route.

The destination of the Transumanza today was the Quercigliole, an Agriturismo.. or farmhouse restaurant on the hill above the village.

Unsure where to go I parked in the village, and asked a couple of women sauntering up the hill.

They were taking their daily stroll or passeggiata as it is called here. Although they do not always walk to the chapel on the hilltop today they set it in their sights, proud to be witnessing The Transumanza.

Happy for me to join them I was able to walk up the hill with them.

Both born and bred in the village neither had traveled far, and laughed at my knowing more about Molise than them.

Proud though of their roots in the soil of Ripalimosani they were a great source of local colour.. So
 thank you ladies.https://youtu.be/PE5sJy44s-Y
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The chapel called “ The Madonna in the snow” sits proudly above a small grove of Oak trees surrounded by fields and just above the Tratturo.

Sadly a little neglected, it's bright yellow paint crumbling it is still a fairly impressive sight.

Interestingly too this evening to boost the enthusiasm of the people who had turned out for the event a local historian, Guila Severino gave a short presentation on the chapel’s history, and how it links with others along the Tratturi thus playing an important part in the history of the Transumanza.

Nobody had to go hungry either as  a group from Ripalimosano set up a small refreshment tent, something which always essential here, and although the crowds were not large in number they seemed to be doing a roaring trade selling pizza and beer.

As darkness began to fall the eagerly awaited band of beauty and beast could be seen wending its way down the road towards their resting place.

Met by cheers the weary band of drovers cocerced and cajoled the cattle to their resting place for the night under the Oaks.

They were then able to clamber off their horses, stretch their weary legs then sit down to enjoy a meal cooked in their mobile kitchen, before settling down on camp beds and mats to sleep for a few hours well earned rest.

Tomorrow bringing another early start as they have to be up at 4 to break camp ready to set off once again on the latter stages of their epic journey.

Well done one and all.

And finally ... THE FINAL COUNTDOWN

Having left the weary cowboys and girls to enjoy their supper before bedding down for the night in the wild I wended my way home to catch a few hours sleep before getting up to see them off on the last stage of their epic journey.

For me dragging myself out of bed just before 4 was a trail but only too much of a challenge as at least I had spent the night on a bed rather than the ground.

Ripalimosani was slumbering  peacefully when I drove through to join them.

Stretching and yawning they dragged themselves from under blankets to saddle their horses and , grab a few biscuits, a swig of coffee.

Within just over half an hour the cattle were driven from the small woodland corale where they had rested overnight and were been driven down the hillside towards Frosolone and ultimately home.

I was able to join them for a short distance, but as I had to collect my car from Ripalimosani and had another appointment only trooped along with them for a short distance of a few kilometers.

Walking with them was no mean feat as the pace set by the cattle and riders was certainly not slow .
A number of local people joined them though, all keen hikers.

The spectacle of several hundred creamy white cattle being herded by the competent and able  horsemen was a something I have only seen before in Cowboy films.


Although not the empty cactus strewn plains of the American far west it was something I will never forget.

The determination of man and beast to reach a destination?
Perhaps too the combination of all the forces at play culminating in such a momentous achievement.

I am saddened by the lack of interest here in events like this which although attract a degree of local curiosity do not bring people out in huge numbers.

The Tratturi and the history with which they are surrounded are bring championed by a small but rather haphazard   band of local people who do believe in the importance of the Tratturo and the Transumanza, all determined to protect and promote their own history.
More can be done and for this reason I am seeking to encourage and develop a greater degree of interest in the history and principles of the Tratturi and the Transumanza not for my penny personal gratification but because I believe they are a resource worth fighting for.

Help me to bring this incredible and unique path of Italian history to the feet of anone who appreciates that the partnership of man and nature is one we should all embrace.

Molise is rich in culture and history but it story needs telling, not so that it is detroeted or exploited but the treasure shared by those who will and do appreciate it








Wednesday, 23 May 2018

Following in the footsteps

Today a monumental event took place here in Southern Italy which creates a new chapter in the history of Molise and Puglia.

Let me explain why...
Up until about twenty years ago an annual journey, called the TRANSUMANZA took place in Southern Italy.


Drovers and shepherds bought their cattle, sheep and goats down from the mountain regions to the valleys and plains to seek green lush pastures.

They drove them along the TRATTURI , ancient routes across the south of Italy.

Sadly a great deal of the original routes have been lost, either by being  encroached upon by local farmers  for crops or in some cases roads and even houses have been built  on them.

However parts of some of the routes remain, and thanks to the hard work and sheer determination of people like Carmalina Colantuono they are not going to be forgotten.

She works tirelessly seeking acknowledgment of the Tratturi and the Transumanza's importance in Italy, even battling with regional and national politicians to seek greater recognition for them.

Today was a culmination of all her hard work as she was able to drive a herd of cattle out of  San Marco in Lama, a small town in Puglia together with family and friends.

An amazing feat if only because of the bureaucratic hurdles through which she has had to jump to achieve this.

I greatly admire her determination and relentless stamina.

Unfortunately I did not see the start as I got rather lost following my trusty satellite navigation.
Instead of arriving on the outskirts of  San Marco in Lamis I ended up in the mountains having followed a very good road ( quite unusual here) which abruptly came to a DEAD END .. in the middle of nowhere.
I then had to turn round to drive back the way I had come, eventually catching the tail end of the herd!
If you will excuse the pun.

Their bells jangling the cattle trotted along the road out of the town, straying occasionally into the Olive groves, and wheat fields along their route.

The riders kept a  watchful eye on them herding the strays  back into the group with practiced ease.
Police followed behind to control the steam of traffic which tiptoed along patiently until
the cattle were led off down a track to join the Tratturo.

I smiled as I too followed in my car reflecting on how now we are so used to just getting from A to B,  using the fastest and most direct route.

Perhaps being forced to slow down was a lesson on how there  are more fundamental reasons at stake other the obvious one to preserve a valuable piece of history.

We need to stop our relentless urge to drive pylons and wind turbines into our soil, taking time to value what we still have before it is too late

It  is essential we will be able to tread these ancient paths once again, not only today but in the future too

Let's work with Carmalina and ensure that the TRANSUMANZA and the TRATTURI are given the recognition they deserve.

WELL DONE
and I can't wait to see the next stage .. I just wish I had a horse and I would be there with you .






Monday, 26 June 2017

PEACE AND HARMONY, MOLISE STYLE

PEACE AND HARMONY, MOLISE STYLE

Tucked away here in the Molise countryside is Casale Kolidur, http://molisediscovery.com/
An old house, once the home of the local bishop.
Now run as a small country hotel it is an absolute joy to behold.Related image

Nestled amongst fields and woodland it boasts comfortable bedrooms, each one with exceptional views, all furnished with a simple elegance.Image result for kolidur

They have a restaurant open to both guests and the general public, which offers local produce cooked to an exceptionally high standard.Related image

Surrounded by a sheltered garden, where Barack - the proprietor, hosts events throughout the summer including yoga sessions, evenings of Ethic music and art workshops.





It was one of these sessions which took me to see just what the Kolidur has to offer.

 From the minute I stepped into through the large wrought iron gates I was totally enamoured with all it had to offer.


Barack is friendly, accommodating host, with a background in hospitality, who works hard to ensure to provide all his customers with all they need to savour a unique experience here in Molise.
The hotel is homely as well as elegant, and they welcome both children and dogs to join their own.
They certainly seem to get it right.
Image result for casale kolidur
Also on offer is a range of tours for the discerning traveller, working with local guides and businesses.

You can walk in the mountains with Alessandro who runs Molise Explorer,
http://www.moliseexplorer.com/

Only a few short months ago I went walking with Alessandro in the mountains above Guardiaregia. The forest floor then still carpeted in snow, we were even able to follow the tracks of a lone wolf.
Image result for wolf track in snowImage result for wolf

You can ride horses too at La Scuderie dei Peschio in San Giuliano del Sannio
https://www.facebook.com/scuderiedelpeschio/
Another local venue run by Rosario, who is as passionate about her cooking as she is her horses.
They welcome both inexperienced and experienced riders who want ride western style. Something a little different for anyone from Britain.

Image result for la scuderie del peschioImage result for la scuderie del peschio
Just a short walk from the hotel there lies the village of Guardiaregia.Image result for GuardiaregiaIf you are feeling energetic you can walk up through the old village to view a magnificent valley and gorge.Image result for Guardiaregia

A road from the village also leads up into a National Park, which is a WWF site. http://www.wwf.it/oasi/molise/guardiaregia_campochiaro/guardiaregia_campochiaro__english_version_.cfm

Once again Molise has kept it's secrets hidden, but the Kolidur has opened a door, allowing you an opportunity to peep inside to discover just a little of what the region has to offer.

http://molisediscovery.com/

If you live in Molise and are looking for somewhere completely different to eat, give the Kolidur a try, or you can join in their yoga sessions throughout the summer, take part in an art workshops, or listen to music in uniquely tranquil surroundings.

I promise you it really is well worth a visit. I know Barack and his family will welcome you with open arms.

Image result for casale kolidur


Friday, 5 May 2017

More than prayer

Churches are more than places of prayer and worship, here in Italy as indeed many other countries of the world they are places of pilgrimage where one can come to pray or merely to admire and marvel at the art nestled away inside them.

Here in Molise there are surprises tucked away in everyone, some simplly adorned and others rich in frescos and tapestries but all an absolute delight.

Even you are not religious I  am sure you will find yourself marvelling at the astonishingly, magnificent art which lays within them across the world. 

So where did it all begin?
http://www.garvandwane.com/religion/religion1.html#beginning

Not wanting to plagiarise other people's work I am going to leave you to read this in full, but principally as far as we are aware the origins of RELIGION can be traced back to around 50,000 years ago.

RELIGION is universal, a trait common to the human race traversing time and culture. Sadly, however, it has been the route of the majority of our battles and squabbles over time alongside the fundamental human desire of envy.

Religion developed alongside our art, music and all other aspects of our cultures. There is some suggestion that Religion developed alongside agricultural. Was there perhaps a desire to explain events that impacted on the crops we grew? The weather perhaps, or even disease?

We are not entirely sure, as there is some evidence that the roots of religion can be traced back to Paleothiclic cave art, where there are indications in cave paintings of spirit beings.

Leaving this debate aside the topic of this blog is a brief introduction to some of the beautiful Churhes here in Molise.

My travels around Molise have only just begun, with one hundred and thirty eight villages. There is an abundance of churches, chapels and catherdrals across the region. They range from hugely ornate churches adorned with frescoes and statutes to simple buildings with cavernous wooden roofs.

Most villages have at least three churches, a Mother Church, and chapels which are often on the outskirts, sometimes tucked away in the countryside.

 I began my travels in Cantalupo del Sannio, having read a book of photographs telling the story of the women in the village, published by FRANK MONACO in 1953.
                                     Crosses on hillsides, and in Piazzas across the region

                                                                 
Doorways of Significance!
                                                         Ceilings reaching the heavens






                                                                 Glided crosses
 Soft gentle hues

 Angels on the ceiling 


 Reach for the stars 




                                                      Beautiful windows, simple and complex



                     Chapels and churches in the rock and on mountain top 
                                                                      Image result for pietracupa
Now three months down the line I have seen over thirty stunning churhes which have lifted my heart and my spirits.

Whether you are interested merely in the art, archaelogy, or architecture, or want to explore the churches here to explore your faith here in Molise once again from there is a chapel and a church waiting here for you.

When I discovered the little chapel of Santa Guista just a few miles from where I live in July last year I wept, moved so profoundly by the peace, quiet and simple solitude

Pietracuppa in this video I took there is too so moving... Let me know how you feel when you see it...


https://vimeo.com/216061263












Wednesday, 26 April 2017

Rocks and ruins

Sunday today, another early start I set off to explore the Morge Park here in Molise.
The music at the start of this blog is dedicated to Pierluigi Russo - a local guy passionate about the history of Molise and in particular the Morge area. The haunting melodies of Celtic music resonant the intricacies of the area's complex history.
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The event was an introduction to the work of a local botanist written two hundred years ago Giosue Scaranno wrote at length about the flora and fauna of the region. presented by enthusiastic botanists from neighbouring Abruzzo they were a fountain of knowledge and an inspiration.

The day was not merely to illustrate the work of an ancient scientist but to bring to the attention of people here in Molise just what they have sitting on their doorstep.

A large rock called a Morge in the Molise region. They are unique to the region and do not exist anywhere else in the world. If you excuse the comparison they are rather like a large pimple that literally erupted from the earth several thousand years ago. Literally spread across Molise they vary in size tremendously from not much more than a few metres high to over 50 metres.

The Morge dei la Briganti, sits beside a popular, and exceptionally good restaurant run by Luigi Cicarella. In Italy country restaurants like this are called agriturismo, so is a farm with a restaurant and must by law produce all their own food. (see food blog Taste of Molise)

The huge rock sits proudly surveying the countryside surrounding it as it has done for centuries, once a garrison which stood with fortitude and strength in many a battle, it then became a refuge for local bandits and a home for local peasant farmers.

There are caves carved into the rock, some of which date back to its origins as a castle and others much later.

At the top there is even a small chapel or temple which can still be reached, although with some difficulty.

You are free to climb around it exploring every nook and cranny, which is quite a novelty for any visitor from the Northern Europe as we are used to barriers and safety announcements telling us that we can't climb or even touch cave or castle.

The rock yields a great deal of interest in other areas too, one of which is the amazing array of fossils easily seen both inside and outside the caves. The geology of the rocks and the impact which both man and the passage of time have had on them too are clearly evident.

Today more than forty people came to see the rock, which was a great achievement for the local organiser Roberto Colleto who works tirelessly to promote the interests of the region.

The flora and fauna of Molise is exceptionally beautiful. There is an incredibly diverse range of flowers and plants, some unique to the area. We were even shown one that smells like goat's cheese!

So much to learn and so much to see, there is something here for everyone.

Search for fossils in the rocks 
You can climb to the top to admire the view
 Walk under the ancient Morge, admist lush green woodland
 You can climb up rocks.....
 Ponder over the precious blooms