Sunday today, another early start I set off to explore the Morge Park here in Molise.
The music at the start of this blog is dedicated to Pierluigi Russo - a local guy passionate about the history of Molise and in particular the Morge area. The haunting melodies of Celtic music resonant the intricacies of the area's complex history.
The event was an introduction to the work of a local botanist written two hundred years ago Giosue Scaranno wrote at length about the flora and fauna of the region. presented by enthusiastic botanists from neighbouring Abruzzo they were a fountain of knowledge and an inspiration.
The day was not merely to illustrate the work of an ancient scientist but to bring to the attention of people here in Molise just what they have sitting on their doorstep.
A large rock called a Morge in the Molise region. They are unique to the region and do not exist anywhere else in the world. If you excuse the comparison they are rather like a large pimple that literally erupted from the earth several thousand years ago. Literally spread across Molise they vary in size tremendously from not much more than a few metres high to over 50 metres.
The Morge dei la Briganti, sits beside a popular, and exceptionally good restaurant run by Luigi Cicarella. In Italy country restaurants like this are called agriturismo, so is a farm with a restaurant and must by law produce all their own food. (see food blog Taste of Molise)
The huge rock sits proudly surveying the countryside surrounding it as it has done for centuries, once a garrison which stood with fortitude and strength in many a battle, it then became a refuge for local bandits and a home for local peasant farmers.
There are caves carved into the rock, some of which date back to its origins as a castle and others much later.
At the top there is even a small chapel or temple which can still be reached, although with some difficulty.
You are free to climb around it exploring every nook and cranny, which is quite a novelty for any visitor from the Northern Europe as we are used to barriers and safety announcements telling us that we can't climb or even touch cave or castle.
The rock yields a great deal of interest in other areas too, one of which is the amazing array of fossils easily seen both inside and outside the caves. The geology of the rocks and the impact which both man and the passage of time have had on them too are clearly evident.
Today more than forty people came to see the rock, which was a great achievement for the local organiser Roberto Colleto who works tirelessly to promote the interests of the region.
The flora and fauna of Molise is exceptionally beautiful. There is an incredibly diverse range of flowers and plants, some unique to the area. We were even shown one that smells like goat's cheese!
So much to learn and so much to see, there is something here for everyone.
Search for fossils in the rocks
You can climb to the top to admire the view
Walk under the ancient Morge, admist lush green woodland
When I opened my eyes at 6 am on Saturday this week to began another day in Molise, I pondered for a moment as the alarm on my phone woke me up that perhaps I would give the walk with Alessandro and Michelle from the Moliser Explorer group a miss.
But I dragged myself out of bed, deciding resolutely that I would join them to explore the Matese National park.
I can now hardly find the words to express just how happy I am that I made the effort.
Alessandro asked me to meet them in the village of Guardiaregia.
A small village on the edge of the park.
It's war memorial commands a view over the valley below, and the church sits watching over the village.While I was waiting for my fellow explorers to arrive I wandered around with my camera in hand as usual. The children were on their way to school, and a smattering of people were having their morning coffee at the local bar aptly named " Wish you were here" as I indeed I wish you were too , to be able to enjoy all that Molise has to offer.
When Alessandro and his team arrived we set off to explore the first leg of our journey. We initially climbed up some steps to a viewing platform above the village which looks out onto a huge canyon below, and mountains beyond. This weekend they were sprinkled liberally with a fresh covering of snow, which from a distance resembled icing sugar scattered on the top a cake.
After gazing in awe on the view below, we set off with our trusty guides to explore pastures new.
Driving up into the Matese mountains above the villlage we parked at a Refugio called Santa Maria, then set off to follow a route up to the top of Bear Mountain.
I had not expected there to be quite so much snow, some of it only having fallen this week.
We were walking at around 6000 feet, 1600 metres..Quite a contrast to my walk along the beach at Termoli the previous afternoon!
This is the magic of Molise, an opportunity to experience such an astoundingly beautiful landscape in less than a hundred miles, literally from the mountains to the sea,
Sunlight reflecting on the glistening snow, the trees still barely in bud.
Paths leading through trees and across rocky outcrops. An opportunity too to be surrounded by nature, to enjoy peace and quiet, treading paths carpeted in virgin snow.
Apart that is from the occasional animal footprint.
Having examined these closely we decided they were probably that of a lone Wolf. We were able to follow them for at least a mile, before we changed direction to follow another path. Someone did suggest they were the footprints of a Yeti, but I am sure they were those of a Wolf.
There are some in the area, although not many as the food is sparse. They are now found closer to he farms at lower altitudes obviously because food is more abundant.
Michelle and Alessandro our guides were both excellent, a great inspiration too for everyone with them. Always ready with a smile of encouragement and a light hearted banter to keep us all going.
The walk was not difficult, but was reasonably strenuous. To walk at this altitude requires a reasonable level of fitness...
We walked through trees, which towered above us, birches, beeches and oaks. We came across one Holly tree, the only evergreen we saw. Apparently the leaves of the Holly are only prickly on the lower branches of the tree to deter animals from eating them. They say you learn something new every day.
The ice on a crystal clear frozen pond, which sparkled in the afternoon sun seemed to cast a uniquely alluring spell the forest around it, enchanting everything around it.
The trees bare branches stretching up to reach the sky, reflected on the gleaming snow.
We walked onwards and upwards, clambering up to reach the top of Bear Mountain, where we met by this astonishingly beautiful view.
A man made lake, called Lake Matese, it sits nestled amidst the mountains providing a valuable water source to the farms which surround it.
Cows like toys in a children's farm grazed on green meadows below, and a smoke drifted off into the distance from a farmhouse.
We stood above it looking down on what seemed like another world so far below us, with mountains rising on the far shore high into the turquoise sky.
After a brief rest to refuel on wine, salami and almonds we walked on, clambering up still higher.
Walking in the crisp snow was incredible, covering everything like a thick white carpet. Scattered flowers added splashes of colour, tiny purple Crocuses, and bright blue Gentian.
At this point we were about halfway through our expedition, which although strenuous had not taken its toll on anyone. But tummies were beginning to rumble having expended so many calories so it was clearly time to stop for lunch.
"Pranzo al sacco" is the Italian word for picnic. Which literally means a picnic in a bag. However just like every meal eaten in Italy it is taken seriously so there was plenty to go round.
Broad beans and panini,ffennel, oranges and almonds
A Tasty and healthy feast.
Once refuelled we resumed the journey to our destination, which was to see the entrance to some pot holes, hidden in the forest., called the Pozzo di Neve, which means a "well in the snow" they are tucked away virtually hidden by trees, and in a few months time cloaked in green they will be virtually impossible to find unless you know where they were are. They form what are apparently one of the largest cave networks in Italy.
Exploring them would require a serious speleologist, or caver, something we were certainly not planning to do, not on this particular adventure anyway.
Following the trails through the forests and national park is fairly straightforward as the paths are well signposted, with signs and marks on the trees clearly define the way.
The paths here are called Sentiere. We were able to follow them for the most part but it is better to have an experienced guide to show you the way, as well as impart local knowledge...
The gallery of photos below are just a few posted here to illustrate to illustrate just a fraction of the beauty of all I encountered on my first expedition into the Matese mountains.
Thank you both Alessandro and Michelle - the Molise Explorer group for letting me tag along.
I cannot wait till the next time.
If you want to know more about walking, mountain biking, Jeep Expeditions and boot camps here in Molise ... let me know. because together we can promise you not just a holiday but an experience
contact me on FACEBOOK, text 0044 7867 419833 or email... madeinmolise@yahoo.com
Today I stood on top the world looking out over the Coste, the canyon below the hilltop town of Trivento in Molise. Early in the morning when I met my guide, a young man bursting with ideas and enthusiasm on how to move Molise forward.
Coffee and a very tasty brioche in a local bar were the best way to start the morning which was initially grey and overcast. However once fuelled with fresh coffee I was given a comprehensive and enlightening tour of the local area.
It was a joy to meet someone so keen to tell me about their ideas on what can and should be done to create tourism in the area, something it needs NOW.
Trivento, which translates literally as Three Winds, sits proudly and definitely as do most of the towns and villages here, waiting patiently as time ticks by hastening further the decline of so many houses in the old part of the town.
Stone and mortar have stood the test of time, but sadly now as the population of the town has declined over the past twenty years as it has across the region.
The old town is dominated by an incredibly beautiful church of immense proportions. Apparently, there has been a church on the site for over a thousand years, and below the foundations are remains of an ancient temple which predates Christianity.
The church is dominated by a fresco in the dome where a dove transcends to the heavens. When you stand to stare up at it seems to take your heart with it to soar out above the world beyond.
In complete contrast, the church also houses a crypt where you can walk amongst the columns beneath the transcript and altar. The stones are a testament to the age of the ancient building holding the faith and belief of so many who have prayed in hope and often desperation within its walls.
Back outside in the piazza in front of the church clearly displays the changes that have been made over the years. You can the differences in the stones, and styles of craftsmanship used to rebuild it over time.
Continuing to walk around the old town there are so many houses for sale waiting for somebody new to come along to breath new live into their empty rooms, throw open their shutters and help them live again.
The emptiness resonates but welcomes you as turn each corner, flowers still blooming in rocky crevices giving colour to the grey stone. The town has seen so much over so many years, giving safe haven to its residents in times of war and strive. Now it is ready to receive the footsteps of others who want to soak up it's history. It needs tourists as does every tiny hamlet and village in the region.
People who appreciate what was once there. Those interested in art, nature, history, and a simple beauty which transcends over Molise like a cloak from the past.
As the morning mist lifted we stood looking out over the parapets of the town over the valley which sweeps down to the Trigno river in the bottom. A rainbow appeared over the forest below bringing a rich array of colour to the greens of leave and bud.
Perhaps someone will find the gold at the bottom of the rainbow and use it to restore Trivento to it's former glory.
Molise, tumbling, tumultuous hills rising up to meet snowy capped mountains and sweeping down into long rock-strewn rivers rumbling onto till they meet the sea.
An area so diverse not only it's natural landscape, but also the vegetation, which ranges from bamboo, and tough tangled grasses to Olive groves, with vineyards on the sloping hillsides down to orchards of Oranges and Lemons near the Adriatic coast.
Every day, no matter which direction I go, I drive past rocky outcrops, forests of mighty Oaks, bamboo, gorse, grass, and meadow.
The roads snake up and down the mountains, crossing rivers and valleys until you reach the coast.
An endless carpet of greens and browns stretched out beneath a blue sky.
Sometimes there are streaks of white cloud scattered across the sky, but often it merely blue. As the sun rises over the sea in the morning the pink veil of dawn lifts to reveal a vibrant blue, which is often exactly the shade every child uses to paint a sky... Sky Blue.
Now as the weeks roll on into Spring, the colours are becoming more vibrant as everything seems to be bursting into life.
Since I began this project I have taken more than five thousand photos, yet they do not capture the full glory of the countryside that surrounds me here in Molise.
Molise is unique because it has such a hugely diverse landscape, in such a small area, within a few miles you will see so much. It still takes my breath away when I round a corner and am met by a range of mountains, or a huge wooded hillside.
Flowers are not only bursting forth in the fields, orchards and woodland but in pots on balconies. Which you now see in abundance in every town and village bring colour to the dull, decaying buildings. Everything from Camelias and Wisteria, to Begonias and Geraniums.
Molise a land of magic for photographers, botanists, ecologists, historians, artists, writers, walkers, and just someone seeking a place to really get away from it all.
